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Day 8
Updated: Aug 31
Denmark
We’ve previously mentioned Ali’s adopted status as mission mother and many of her charges were from the wonderful country of Denmark, where compulsory national service at the age of 18 lends itself to the Danes arriving in mission as security personnel and bodyguards. We know them well enough and kindly enough to observe that the Danes (and their Scandinavian neighbours) have a certain mentality that makes for the most amazing friendships and some pr-e-t-t-t-y wild social occasions.
Some of our friends had completed a tour with the Sirius Dog Sled Patrol that protects Greenland’s border. For months at a time, with only huskies for transport and company, these guys would be completely self-sufficient and have to deal with anything that came their way, including polar bears. Our friends and family used to ask if Ali was safe in Kosovo when she was there on her own for the first four years, but when you count these guys as friends and neighbours there really was no safer place to be.
Naturally, invites were extended to visit their home nation and we took the opportunity to add Denmark to our list of countries visited with a long weekend in Copenhagen and an overnight jaunt up north to Aarhus for the Jutland Derby.
We’re relatively limited on word count for these posts, so there is no time for a full recounting of our social adventures with the Danes; well, that and the booze-fuelled amnesia that makes the details a bit fuzzy; but for the purposes of food memories from this trip to Copenhagen, it recounts our visit to the world’s number one restaurant at the time: Noma.
It felt natural to continue our exploration of fine dining here and we felt extremely privileged to have the opportunity to see what made Noma the best in the world. The format was groundbreaking at the time: chef René Redzepi operated with meticulous detail and enforced a strictly seasonal menu based on ingredients foraged locally or grown sustainably. Foraging was in its infancy amongst chefs; it’s now developed a strong following and when well-executed it’s a real point of difference in a dish.
The meal was, in some parts, mind-blowing: a line of frozen snow across the plate that tasted of a pine forest with a green stick of, what looked like liquorice, but actually tasted of apple. One of the final petit fours offered with coffee at the end of the meal was a line of bones with the middle marrow being a sweet fudge made of – yes – bone marrow. If you closed your eyes and didn’t focus on the ick factor, it really was delicious!
It was utterly bonkers. Enjoyable, yes, but it was the first time we were struck by how far food was now being manipulated and how the awarding of three Michelin stars and the title of best restaurant in the world had caused some lines to be crossed.
Dishes were being served in increasingly bizarre vessels. An entire plate of gently smoking sea rocks for a single scallop, a “forest floor” of moss and grass on which was balanced a line of singed spring onions. A pile of green leaves placed across a plate without dressing or seasoning, intended to provide a taste of “nature”. Props can be a fascinating and entertaining addition to a dish and you see some fantastic examples on shows such as Great British Menu. They should intensify the experience and enjoyment but perhaps stop short at serving things in mini shopping trolleys or on a dustbin lid!
A specific Noma chef was responsible for each dish and that same chef brought the dish to the table and intensely explained everything that had gone into the plate and the concept behind it. At times it seemed that the plate had wilted by the time the presentation concluded and the actual eating of the dish took less time than the explanation. What was going on!
It was a very though-provoking experience for reasons that Noma perhaps didn’t intend. We were at the best restaurant in the world but it wasn’t the best food experience we had ever had and it just left us really confused. The open kitchen worked in complete silence and rather than convey an air of professionalism, it came across as robotic and forced. The colour palette of the room was muted greys, white and black. Combined with austere service and a hushed room, it was just all a little bit awkward.
In terms of food memories, it really taught us that style over substance was something to be avoided. The simplest of food speaks for itself and if the service is great then it makes eating out an enjoyable and memorable experience. We’ve used some props at the café, we have some cute milk churns for our teas and coffees, but we’ll stop short at serving our soups in a welly boot or lattes in half an avocado if that’s ok with you all.
The following day we had a glorious visit to Tivoli Gardens to blow away the cobwebs. That night we ate in Mash Copenhagen. Renowned for its steaks and sides, we had a more enjoyable relaxed meal for less money and less refinement. We even made a profit at the Jutland Derby in Aarhus and had a fabulous family BBQ with our friend Thomas and his family. Yes! This is what it’s all about. Relax. Exhale. Laugh. Friendship. There will always be a time and a place for formal dining when it’s done right. But give us a cold beer, a camping chair under a gazebo in someone’s garden, a picnic table and a freshly grilled burger on a paper plate and we are happy as can be.
This is Day Eight in our series sharing 31 Food Memories for the 31 Days of August.
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